It was supposed to get better. That was my tacit, agreement with myself about coming here. The idea being that 2005 was a bad year, some kinks had to be worked out and then this year it would all get better.
There were to be elections, and then a new government and then Iraqis would take over the running of things, the insurgency would be defeated or re-absorbed, the Americans would leave and the streets would be safe again.
And most importantly I would be able walk through a marketplace – which as far as I'm concerned is the God-given right of anyone living in a Middle Eastern city and something I have yet to do here.